The inaugural burger for the Brighton Burgers blog couldn’t have gone less smoothly. I had intended (along with my intrepid burger-ing companion, my fiancé) to make JB’s American Diner my first review. But it seems that a lot of other people hanker for a burger on a late Saturday afternoon too. Having been before, I knew it got busy, but this time it was heaving. They’d even removed the pool table since my last visit in order to cram in more tables. The waitress took my name and number, quoted a 30 minute wait, and ushered us out the door with a smile.
We decided to pass the time by drinking cocktails around the corner at Doctor Brighton’s. We managed two each, in just over an hour, before realising we weren’t getting a call. Chalking up a black mark for JB’s future entry on this blog, we instead headed for The Globe, a pub situated on Middle Street.
And there it was, standing out like sore thumb on the menu – the heavily American-influenced Krispy Kreme Bacon Cheese Burger. How could one not plump for that concoction – something you’d more likely find on Man Vs. Food than on the menu of a British public house. It came with chips included in the price, but we upgraded them to the Cheese Fries for an extra quid.
The Krispy Kreme Bacon Cheese Burger is pretty aptly-named, as it turns out. A single patty, melted American cheese and crispy strips of bacon are lovingly sandwiched between two halves of a glistening Krispy Kreme doughnut. Initial impressions are underwhelming – the burger is almost comically small. Perhaps just a touch bigger than a slider. The patty is thin but dense, the bacon crispy indeed. But the overall dominant taste is that mouthful of sugar that bookends the ingredients – the other components of this ludicrous burger just don’t stand a chance, and the overriding feeling is one of eating a dense doughnut and not a burger.
Luckily, The Globe make up for the size of the burger with a mountainous pile of fries, served in a plastic basket alongside the main event. Drenched in cheese sauce, mustard and mayo, these were heavy on the condiments but high in satisfaction, and formed the bulk of the meal. So great were the quantity, that they were impossible to finish. They could have done with more of the cheese sauce and less of the other condiments, but this is a minor nitpick; unlike the burger, I’d happily order these again.
Dimly lit but unique, The Globe is a decent boozer to while away an hour (or five, in this case) on the seafront on a sunny Saturday afternoon. The incessant chug of the paddles on the wall of the upper bar is the main talking point, but they also have a large basement bar with retro consoles set up for those impromptu sessions of Mario Kart. They also have a Basement Cinema night every week – free film, free popcorn and a ‘text your order’ service. The service was also very amiable during our visit, but no salt and pepper on the table is a cardinal sin in my eyes.
A memorable meal but not a particularly excellent one. The burger was unusual but needed a stronger patty, better bacon and much more girth. The fries were oversaturated with condiments but still enjoyable. The presentation – arranged on a tray lined with red-and-white-striped paper – was a nice touch that evoked memories of hamburger chains from across the Atlantic.
Price: £7.50 (+ £1 cheese fries upgrade)
Rating: 3 out of 5.